Lake Geneva is Switzerland, its banks and palaces. Jean-Jacques Rousseau has made of this body of water a shrine of romanticism. But Lake Geneva also has a shore in the shadows, its French shore, with many hidden faces. From Fifi the fisherman to border inhabitants, from Lorna the pianist to Magnin

the border watchman, from Daniel the Macedonian who shows around tourists to customs officers hunting clandestine Kosovars, this voyage explores a more lively, commonplace Lake Geneva. Lake Geneva is perhaps the heart of the world?.for Ché Guévara, its the heart of a monster.